How about experiencing Bangkok these days ?

Written by Tyler Kelly on April 28, 2010 – 7:04 am

BANGKOK UNDER RED SHIRTS

How about experiencing Bangkok these days ?

Tranvestites beauty contest in Northern Bangkok on April 25 (photo: L. Citrinot)

By Luc Citrinot, etn (in Bangkok) | Apr 30, 2010

For almost a month now, Red Shirts’ presence in the city center of Bangkok has filled up media reports –including this website-. They are still there and for the few tourists still daring to come to Thailand’s capital city despite travel advisories, here is now the lighter side of the story: YES. It is still possible for a tourist to enjoy Bangkok’s vibrancy, its shopping, its great food and its transvestites’ performance shows…

Of course, the newest attraction is to pass over barricades set up by Red Shirts at Lumpini Park. Many tourists venture over the fence for a picture. But anyone can walk the mile-long separating Lumpini Park from Siam Square and look. Foreigners are generally greeted by smiles and are even offered food and water.

Well, far of looking a war zone, the Red Shirts camp is basically reminiscent of a big Thai market: food is abundant, souvenirs are on sale and many people will just ask with a sense of curiosity where travelers come from. Then they are plenty of good photo motives: monks sleeping on the door steps of the Four Seasons Hotel, other monks walking in slipper shoes carrying a portrait of Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva (in Thailand, it is a high sign of disrespect as feet are considered as the lowest part of the body and dirty). Or people taking showers next to glitzy condominium buildings!

Arriving in Siam, visitors should pay tribute to Red Shirts who succeeded to have turned an area once full of shoppers into a political rally. On a central stage located next to Central World Shopping complex, speakers succeed to each other under cheering crowds. However, far from the current events, the exquisite Jim Thompson House and Museum on Rama I Boulevard remains a peaceful retreat with its restaurant, gardens and antiques collection.

Just moving to Chidlom street, visitors will reach the ‘border’ between Red Shirts territory and the ‘Multi-Colored’ world. Leaving barricades behind, Central Chidlom department store welcomes again ‘adventurous’ foreigners and Thai high-so… The department store was closed for a while until the powerful Chiratiwat family – they own at least half of the country’s shopping centers as well as the Centara Hotels and Resorts chain- took the ‘courageous’ decision to greet again its faithful customers. But instead of being opened until 10 pm, the store closes at 7 pm, making Central employees probably the happiest among people present on the premises.

In fact, for tourists still looking to a great shopping spree in Bangkok, the city has still plenty of opportunities to fill up the Kingdom’s Treasury coffers. Emporium Shopping Center on Sukhumvit (Phrom Pong area) operates normally as it is located far from the events. In fact, it is bustling with wealthy Thai families desperate to find a ‘civilized’ place for their favorite activity: shopping… Nearby, Thong Lor has developed over the last five years into Bangkok’s trendiest district. They are plenty of boutiques, concept stores, fancy small-scale shopping malls, trendy restaurants and bars. It is another world light-years away from the Red Shirts camp!

Other good shopping centers are Central Lat Prao in the North, Central Bangna as well as Carrefour flagship Store (Rama IV Boulevard) and the Mall in Bangkapi for middle-income shoppers. And over the week end, Chatuchak market is still open and filled up with handicraft items, souvenirs, tasty food specialties or cheap design clothing…

Looking at entertainment? Despite the proximity of shouting Red Shirt leaders over loudspeakers at Lumpini Park, Silom Road is almost back to normal for tourists looking for some night entertainments. Prostitutes are waiting again for customers in Patpong alleys and seem unimpressed by army troops patrolling in the area. Irish pubs are welcoming again expats looking for a cool beer in front of a giant TV screen broadcasting football or car race. Even in the worst of the turmoil ten days ago, gay venues never closed down. Bars and discos with transvestites performing as usual are all open. Only Patpong central night market has been closed as it could be an easy target for casualties. But Suan Lum Night Bazaar with its wide choice of handicraft objects continues to operate, despite some outlets being closed. This is finally what makes Bangkok so special: the capital has the ability to adapt to anything for the best or the worst!

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